Frognerseteren

The interior is warm and atmospheric — heavy timber beams, antler chandeliers, traditional Norwegian textiles, and fireplaces that are genuinely welcome on cold days. The menu focuses on traditional Norwegian food: the smalahove (sheep's head) is a speciality, but for most visitors the cinnamon waffles with sour cream and jam — served on the terrace in summer — are the essential experience. The apple cake is also famous.

The terrace is the main draw in summer. Sitting in a wooden chair above Oslo with waffles and coffee, looking down over the entire city, is one of those experiences that rewards the journey to get here. The T-bane ride from the city centre takes around 35 minutes on Line 1 (direction Frognerseteren), rising steadily through the residential areas of Majorstuen and Vinderen before entering the forest and climbing to the terminus.

Nordmarka begins at Frognerseteren. The forest stretches for roughly 1,700 square kilometres to the north, with a network of marked trails for summer hiking and winter cross-country skiing. The Tryvannstårnet — Norway's tallest building for many decades, a communications tower on an adjacent summit — offers a viewing platform in summer with even more panoramic views.

In winter, Frognerseteren is the starting point for cross-country ski trails that connect through Nordmarka for dozens of kilometres. The area is lit at night on many trails, and skiing back toward the city on a January evening — lit trail through dark forest, the glow of the city visible through the trees — is one of the more memorable Oslo winter experiences.

Visit at any time of year. Summer and winter both have their logic. Avoid arriving hungry on weekend middays when the restaurant fills up quickly; the terrace waffles can be had at the outdoor kiosk even when the restaurant is full.