Grünerløkka

The coffee culture here is exceptional. Oslo is one of the great coffee cities in the world, and Grünerløkka is where Norwegian specialty coffee effectively began. Tim Wendelboe's small roastery and café on Grüners gate set the standard for the Scandinavian third-wave coffee movement. Fuglen, just south of the neighbourhood on the border with Frogner, is another landmark. Several other roasters and cafés are scattered through the streets — the density of genuinely excellent coffee within a 10-minute walk is probably unmatched in Scandinavia.

Thorvald Meyers gate is the commercial spine — a long, slightly curved pedestrian street lined with restaurants, bars, vintage shops, bookshops, and food vendors. The Saturday and Sunday flea markets along the Akerselva are Oslo's best, mixing furniture, clothing, records, and kitchen equipment. The covered Birkelunden park at the top of the street is where neighbourhood life concentrates on warm summer days.

The restaurant and bar scene is the best in Oslo. Grünerløkka has anchored the city's food reputation for two decades, from the classic Norwegian smørbrød (open sandwiches) at Smalhans to the craft beer bars to the Vietnamese and Middle Eastern restaurants that reflect the neighbourhood's immigrant history. The music venue Blå, on the Akerselva, is the best small venue in the city for jazz, electronic music, and indie.

Walk from the city centre via the Akerselva river path (about 20 minutes) or take the 11, 12, or 13 tram to Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden. The neighbourhood is best visited mid-morning to evening; weekend mornings are particularly lively with the markets and café culture.